Liptovská Mara: A Lonely Tower by the Water and the Story of the Flooded Villages
A lone white tower of the Church of the Virgin Mary on the shore of Liptovská Mara, views of the Tatras and the story of villages that had to make way for the dam.
In Slovakia, by the Liptovská Mara reservoir, we discovered a very interesting place that we originally found completely by chance while browsing a map.
Since then we have already been back a second time. And I have to say that I really liked it here every time. Not only because of the beautiful view of the water and the surrounding Tatras, but also because of the place itself, which has an extraordinary and slightly sad history. At first glance you might not even realise that this lonely white structure is actually the most prominent surviving remnant of what was once an important church.
The little church at Liptovská Mara that is no longer a church
The place is on the shore of Liptovská Mara, not far from the village of Bobrovník and the Havránok archaeological open-air museum. Here stands the tower of the former Church of the Virgin Mary, which today recalls not only the original church but also the vanished village of Liptovská Mara.
When we came here for the first time, what struck me most was the unusual sight of a white tower standing on its own, with its tall shingled roof. Behind it spreads a huge expanse of water, and in the distance the peaks of the Tatras rise. Only when we read the information boards did we find out what an interesting history lies behind this place. Around the tower, remains of the original church and a restored ground plan are still visible today, hinting at how large the church that once stood here was.
Today, though, it is hard to imagine that there used to be a whole church here, and that nearby people lived in a village that no longer exists.
The lonely tower of the Church of the Virgin Mary and the foundations of the vanished church with a Slovak flag
The history of the Church of the Virgin Mary goes back to the Middle Ages
The first stone church probably stood on this spot as early as the turn of the 11th and 12th centuries, around the year 1100. It was an early Romanesque building, which in the second half of the 13th century was replaced by a larger early Gothic church. That was probably built between 1260 and 1280. And it was no ordinary village church. In the Middle Ages it was one of the most important church buildings in all of Liptov. For several centuries it was an important spiritual and administrative centre of the area. The Liptov nobility gathered here, county assemblies were held here, and the church grounds even served as a court.
Over the following centuries the church was rebuilt and extended several times. It went through a major transformation, for example, at the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries, when it gained further Gothic architectural elements. Its surviving tower dates only from the Renaissance reconstruction of 1630 to 1635. And this tower is exactly what we can still admire at the original site today. But then came a time that completely changed the fate of the whole place.
Liptovská Mara and the villages that had to make way for the water
Today Liptovská Mara is one of the best-known reservoirs in Slovakia. It is a popular place for recreation, swimming, water sports and trips. Yet few people looking at its wide surface realise what used to be here.
Preparatory work on the construction of the dam began as early as 1965. The construction of the waterworks itself took place from 1970, and in March 1975 the reservoir began to fill. Its creation fundamentally changed the whole landscape here. The construction and filling of the dam affected thirteen original villages and hamlets. Many of them vanished completely, while some other areas were only partly flooded. Thousands of residents left their homes. According to regional historical overviews, it was roughly 940 families who had to move away and start a new life elsewhere. One of the vanished villages was Liptovská Mara itself, formerly also called Svätá Mara. It was by no means an insignificant settlement. For centuries it had been an important centre of the area, where part of the spiritual, administrative and social life of Liptov took place. People lived here, worked, raised their children and had their homes.
The church tower up close and an information board about the flooded villages
When the dam was being built, it was also decided to remove the original Church of the Virgin Mary. Experts spent quite a long time on the question of saving it. They considered, for example, building a protective embankment around the church or moving the whole building to a safer place. The problem, however, was the technical possibilities, the condition of the original masonry and the unstable subsoil, which could have endangered the building once the reservoir was filled. In the end it was decided that the original church would be removed and a faithful copy would be built elsewhere.
In 1973 and 1974, valuable architectural and artistic elements, parts of the decoration and historical furnishings were therefore gradually removed from the church. In 1975 the original church was demolished. Only the Renaissance tower and the preserved ground plan of the former church remained in its place. Some of the rescued historical elements were later used in building a faithful copy of the church in the Museum of the Liptov Village in Pribylina. It was completed and opened to the public in 1998.
When I learned all this, I began to look at this place a little differently. Today you see a beautiful reservoir surrounded by mountains, but beneath its surface lies a piece of history and the memories of the people who once lived here.
A beautiful view of Liptovská Mara and the Tatras
And the views are another reason why I like it here so much. From the church tower a wonderful view opens up over the water of Liptovská Mara and the surrounding mountain panorama of the Tatras. On our visits we had the chance to see this place in different conditions. One day it was beautifully sunny, another day clouds raced over the mountains and were reflected in the surface of the reservoir. And I must say that both versions had something to them. Right by the water there are also wooden benches where you can sit for a while and simply gaze into the distance. That was probably what I liked best here. Not rushing anywhere, watching the water and the mountains and enjoying the beautiful surroundings. And although we met other tourists here on both visits, the whole place felt very pleasant to me.
Sunny views of Liptovská Mara and the Tatras
What else can you see around Liptovská Mara?
If you have more time, you can combine a visit to the church tower with a walk along the nearby dam. The Havránok archaeological open-air museum, which is close by and recalls the ancient settlement of Liptov, including the period of the Púchov culture influenced by the Celts, is also worth a visit. Nearby, the Dechtáre pier with its beautiful view of the whole reservoir is also worth a stop, which I wrote about in this article.
The surviving tower also houses a small exhibition called Gothic Heritage of Liptovská Mara, in Slovak Gotické dedičstvo Liptovskej Mary. Through reproductions of historical panel paintings from the mid-15th century, it recalls the original Gothic altars and artistic decoration of the church. It is good to know, though, that it is not a classic museum exhibition that you could simply walk into. It is intended only for looking in from the outside.
If you are interested in more of the history of the original church, you can find its faithful copy, using some of the original historical elements, in the Museum of the Liptov Village in Pribylina. That is where you can better imagine what the original church looked like before it vanished.
Practical information: parking and access to the church tower
If you come by car, you will find parking near the tower. During our visit the marked parking area had a fee of 2 euros for two hours. According to the regional tourist organisation Visit Liptov in 2026, however, free parking by the church is also possible. You can also park along the access road above the tower, but only where the current traffic signs allow it.
I therefore recommend checking the conditions on site before you park. They may differ depending on the particular parking area and change over time.
And one more thing that is good to know in advance.
Although the tower of the former church houses a small historical exhibition, Gothic Heritage of Liptovská Mara, you do not normally go inside. According to the Liptov Museum, the exhibition can only be looked into from the outside, not visited as a classic tour of the interior. If the outer door is open, you can peek into the exhibition through the entrance grille. We have already been here twice, and on both visits the door was closed, so we did not get to look inside. But that did not bother us at all. The tower itself, the remains of the original church and above all the beautiful views of Liptovská Mara and the Tatras are definitely worth a visit.
A cloudy day at Liptovská Mara and the reflection of the clouds on the water
A place I love coming back to
There are plenty of beautiful places at Liptovská Mara, but this is one of those that stuck in my memory. Perhaps also because we discovered it more or less by chance while browsing a map, and since then we have already returned once. I like the combination of beautiful nature, views of the Tatras and the history that the lonely church tower recalls here.
And even if you only come for a short stop, I think you will not regret it. So if you are travelling around Liptovská Mara, I recommend stopping here. Perhaps, like me, you will grow so fond of this place that you will want to come back one day.
I love the mountains, and if you do too, this place is definitely worth a visit. 🙂
Good to know
Where is the little church at Liptovská Mara?
The surviving tower of the Church of the Virgin Mary stands on the shore of the Liptovská Mara reservoir, near the village of Bobrovník and the Havránok archaeological open-air museum. On maps you will find it under the name Church of the Virgin Mary, Liptovská Sielnica.
Why did only the tower survive from the original church?
The original Gothic church was demolished in 1975 in connection with the construction of the Liptovská Mara reservoir. What remained at the site was the Renaissance tower from the 17th century and the protected ground plan of the original church.
How many villages disappeared when Liptovská Mara was built?
The construction and filling of the dam affected thirteen original villages and hamlets. Many vanished completely, while some areas were only partly flooded. Thousands of people had to leave their homes, roughly 940 families. Figures for the exact number of relocated residents differ between historical overviews.
Can you go inside the little church at Liptovská Mara?
The surviving tower is not normally open to enter. The exhibition Gothic Heritage of Liptovská Mara can only be looked into from the outside. If the outer door is open, you can peek into the interior through the grille. On both of our visits the door was closed.
Do you have to pay for parking at the little church?
During our visit, the marked parking area had a fee of 2 euros for two hours. However, Visit Liptov also states in 2026 that free parking by the church is possible. It is therefore best to check the current conditions on the traffic signs on site.
Where can you find a copy of the original church?
A faithful copy of the Church of the Virgin Mary, using some of the original historical elements, can be found in the Museum of the Liptov Village in Pribylina. The copy was opened to the public in 1998.
